Country diary: seals' woeful cries cut through the noise of the wind

Rathlin Island, County Antrim: Seals gather at the toe of this boot-shaped island; at the top of the boot, fulmars hang in the air, almost within reach; to the west: 2,000 miles of oceanOn the map, Rathlin lies on the sea like a discarded boot. (If Italy is high-heeled and elegant, this version has a battered, medieval look.) The sea here is the Sea of Moyle, where, according to Irish mythology, the Children of Lir were banished for 300 years after being turned into swans by their stepmother.The ferry from Ballycastle has delivered us to Church Bay, the inner angle of the island. The wind is strong, bright sunlight alternates with showers, mackerel clouds stream overhead. We have six hours. An elderly bus waiting at the harbour makes up our minds about where to go first; it bounces us along a winding road, past fuchsia hedges and scattered farms, to the RSPB centre at Bull Point. Here, at the top of the boot, viewing platforms overlook precipitous cliffs and fulmars hang in the air, almost within touching distance. Westwards: 2,000 miles of ocean. Continue reading...